Step One: Surface Preparation

Step Two: Priming

Step Three: Surface Preparation

Step Four: Applying First Coat of Paint

Step Five: Surface Preparation

Step Six: Applying Second Coat of Paint

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Step One: Surface Preparation

There should not be very much preparations except checking to make sure the walls have been sanded and for dusting off the walls.
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Step Two: Priming

This is an easy stage. I prefer to have the primer tinted close to the finish colour. This makes it easier when applying the finish coats. You get better coverage from the finish paint.
        First mix up the primer.
        Pour as much paint as the paint tray will hold.
        Place the paint tray within 1 foot of the wall that you will be working on.
        Start in a corner and work your way around the room.
        Start by loading your roller.
        Rolling into the paint several times until the paint roller is completely saturated.
        Placing the roller half way up the wall and move upward.
        Close to the ceiling then down to near the floor.
        Keeping on the original stroke each time.
After all the rolling is completed then you can start to brush in the remaining areas.
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Step Three: Surface Preparation

Now check to find any nail holes, nicks or cuts that might have been overlooked earlier. Use drywall compound to fill. Fill if necessary then sand complete surfaces. Dust off the surfaces and proceed to he next step.
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Step Four: Applying First Coat of Paint

Take a brush and cut in. As you finish brushing one surface wall at a time roll immediately. Move to the next surface wall and repeat procedure until all surfaces are completed. Proceed to he next step.
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Step Five: Surface Preparation

Now check to find any imperfections that might have been overlooked earlier. Use drywall compound. Fill if necessary then lightly sand completed surfaces. Dust off the surfaces and proceed to he next step.
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Step Six: Applying Second Coat of Paint

The final coat of paint. Take a brush and cut in. As you finish brushing one surface wall at a time roll immediately. Move to the next surface wall and repeat procedure until all surfaces are completed. Proceed to he next room or clean up.

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Step One: Surface Preparation

Step Two: Prime Surface

Step Three: Surface Preparation

Step Four: Applying First Coat of Paint

Step Five: Surface Preparation

Step Six: Applying Second Coat of Paint

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Step One: Surface Preparation

The very first thing you want to do is check the surfaces for imperfections. These surface imperfections are usually old nail holes, cracks, cuts or nicks, joint separations or just badly covered drywall tape. Be sure to mix the drywall compound thoroughly before you start.

Next you should sand the entire surface removing any/all imperfections before painting.

Repairs:

Drywall Taping – When two pieces of drywall meet together, they should not be anymore than 1/16 of an inch apart. If the gap between the two pieces is more, the gap should be filled before taping.
 

Assuming there is not a need for preprep.

Take a drywall knife and spread drywall compound on generously over the joint. About 1 – 2 inches on each side of the joint at a depth of 1/8 – ¼ of an inch.

Place the drywall tape on the joint. Now using the drywall knife, press down firmly and drag starting from one end to the other end. You should be removing most of the drywall compound that was put on before the tape. Remove all excess drywall compound from the edges. After the drywall compound is whitish-grey the drywall compound is dry, proceed to he next step.

Take a drywall knife and quickly spread drywall compound on generously over the drywall tape. About 1 inches on each side of the drywall tape at a depth of 1/8 – ¼ of an inch. Smooth the edge on each side but don’t waste a lot of time doing it. After the drywall compound is whitish-grey the drywall compound is dry, proceed to he next step.

Run the drywall knife along the drywall compound joints removing the clumps. Now apply drywall compound along both sides of previously applied drywall compound. Cover over the taped area by 1 inch and about 4 inches wide on each side previous joint. This should fill any uneven surfaces and make a substantial larger joint. About 10 – 14 inches wide. After the drywall compound is whitish-grey the drywall compound is dry, proceed to he next step.

Run the drywall knife along the drywall compound joints removing the clumps. Now add a little water to your drywall compound. You want it to have the texture of soft ice cream. Apply a very thin coat of 1/16 of an inch to the wide joint. You want to fill in small holes and imperfections. After the drywall compound is whitish-grey the drywall compound is dry, proceed to he next step.

Sand drywall, smoothing compound by feathering out edges.

Old nail holes - To fill a nail hole, plug hole with nail, piece of wood, or paper. Leave a gap of 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch from the top of the plug to the surface. Next take drywall compound and fill remainder of hole even to the surface preferably with a stiff drywall knife. After the drywall compound turns whitish-grey, the drywall compound is dry enough to repeat. Take a drywall knife with drywall compound on and spread a coat lightly over hole and surrounding area. The patch should be about three inches in diameter now and approximately 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch on top of the surface.

Cracks, cuts or nicks – Pick a tool that is approximately twice the width of the crack. Place end of tool into the crack. Press firmly, creating a v-groove crack. Now take a drywall knife and remove any loose pieces of paper or drywall. With the drywall knife, apply drywall compound to the v-groove. On the first coat, fill groove so that both sides are no longer recessed. After the drywall compound is whitish-grey the drywall compound is dry. Now follow Drywall Taping instructions.

Joint separations – Remove loose materials including drywall tape if necessary. Now follow Drywall Taping instructions.

Trim and Corner Wall Gaps – If there is a gap between the wall and the trim, this needs to be fixed. The best way I have found is to caulk the joint with latex caulking. When applying the caulking, apply a thin bead onto the crack and smooth with your wet finger or wet rag to remove excess. By using latex caulking, clean up is easy with soap and water.

Trim – On the trim, there is always small cracks where the two pieces meet together. This is a great place to use your latex caulking. There is also nail holes to be filled. I use DAP Window Glaze to fill holes. Be sure to only leave what is necessary to fill the hole. Remove the excess.

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Step Two: Spot Prime Surface Where Patches Are

Start to prime in any corner. Load the roller, place it about 2 feet from the floor and roll upward to the top then back down to the floor. Keep your motion consistent. Top to bottom, no part way up rolls. Be sure to feather out the paint. I usually roll 1 line then move over a half a roller with the dry roller. This spreads the paint out reasonably well. Try to roll as much as you can on the surface, leaving minimal brushwork. After all the rolling is complete, cut the surfaces in with a brush.

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Step Three: Surface Preparation

Now check to find any nail holes, nicks or cuts that might have been overlooked earlier. Use drywall compound to fill. Fill if necessary then sand complete surfaces. Dust off the surfaces and proceed to he next step.

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Step Four: Applying First Coat of Paint

Take a brush and cut in. As you finish brushing one surface wall at a time roll immediately. Move to the next surface wall and repeat procedure until all surfaces are completed. Proceed to he next step.

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Step Five: Surface Preparation

Now check to find any imperfections that might have been overlooked earlier. Use drywall compound. Fill if necessary then lightly sand completed surfaces. Dust off the surfaces and proceed to he next step.

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Step Six: Applying Second Coat of Paint

The final coat of paint. Take a brush and cut in. As you finish brushing one surface wall at a time roll immediately. Move to the next surface wall and repeat procedure until all surfaces are completed. Proceed to he next room or clean up.

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Step One: Wood Preparation

Step Two: Staining

Step Three: Sealing

Step Four: Wood Preparation

Step Five: First Finish Coat

Step Six: Wood Preparation

Step Seven: Second Finish Coat

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Step One: Wood Preparation

First thing to do is to survey of all the surfaces. After doing this , you will be able to determine what you will need.

1. Surface marks
2. All the marks will have to be sanded off. Use 80 grit sandpaper. You will need to feather your sanding around the mark somewhat because if you sand in one spot, there will be a lighter difference on that spot Use 100 - 120 grit sandpaper.
3. Rough Areas

There are several methods to applying stain. I usually just brush stain. I am not saying that it is the best way to do it, but that is the way I do it. I prefer to stain before the wood is installed. This makes the process of staining much faster. To do this type of application, layout the wood across two saw horses with a dropsheet below to keep the mess to a minimum. Next mix the stain thoroughly from bottom to top. Proceed by dipping the brush into the stain about one inch up the bristols. Wipe the brush off as you pull the can out of the stain. This should leave enough stain in the brush to start. Place the brush about five inches away from the end of the piece of wood and drag it toward the opposite end. When the brush begins to show signs of being almost empty stop and drag the brush back past where you started at. Right past the end. Again reload the brush and start about five inches from where you had to turn back the previous stroke. Repeat until the piece is completed. Once the piece is completed, run the brush one end to the other without stopping. Complete the rest of the wood following these steps. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

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Step Three: Sealing

Wait for about eight hours after staining the wood. The wood be dry to touch in order to handle it. Follow the same pattern of applying the stain when you apply the sealer but remember to ensure that the cover is even. This is accomplished by repeated hand motion back and forth. Just like staining, once the piece is completed, run the brush one end to the other without stopping. Complete the rest of the wood following these steps. Well, You have to wait two – four hours to make sure the sealer is dry. Sand all the wood. Use 120 grit or finer. Read the label.Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.*******Install Wood with one coat of stain and one coat of sealer if possible***********

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Step Four: Wood Preparation

First thing you can do after the wood has been installed is be sure to inset all the nails with a nail punch. The nails should be inset by about 1/16 – 1/8 of an inch. Start to fill the nail holes with colour matched putty. The putty can also be used to fill small joints that are not more the 1/16 of an inch in width. Joints that are larger will need to be prefilled with wood cement or wood filler. Sand all the wood. Use 120 grit or finer. After all this has been completed, You can wipe each piece to remove any excess putty and dust with varsol or mineral spirits.

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Step Five: First Finish Coat

Apply the coat of your choice of finish whether it be latex / varethane / urathane. Be sure to spread the finish out as much as you can by strking back and forth. After three or four feet, drag your brush back over quickly where you had just finished to have a continuous follow through stroke. Nothing looks worse then a lot of brush marks. Let dry. Different products take shorter or longer periods of time to dry. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

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Step Six: Wood Preparation

Now just a light sanding with 120 grit or finer. You just want to take off any roughness of the finish. You do not want to remove the finish! Wipe clean varsol or mineral spirits to remove the dust.

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Step Seven: Second Finish Coat

Apply the second coat the same as the the first coat. And you are fininshed.
Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

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Step Two: First Coat

Step Three: Second Coat

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Step One: Surface Preparation

First, you want to sweep all the wood to remove dirt, dust, and cobwebs. The next thing is to check the wood for water discolourization spots. If there are any, you will have to mix 50%javex and 50%water together. This mixer can still hurt your hands and eyes so make sure you use gloves and safety goggles. If you find any rough areas, sand smooth and brush clean.

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Step Two: First Coat

For the first coat of stain, you want to put lots of stain on. You always start at one end of the piece and work toward the other end. Do two pieces at a time then if you can switch to three pieces. Whatever you are comfortable with. Do Not Stop Halfway Down A Piece then Stop. This will make a lap mark when you return to finish the piece. Always finish what you start.

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Step Three: Second Coat

Follow a similar pattern of the First Coat. Remember once you start, don’t stop until the pieces are completed

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Step One: Wood Preparation

Step Two: Priming

Step Three: Wood Preparation

Step Four: First Finish Coat

Step Five: Wood Preparation

Step Six: Second Finish Coat

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Step One: Wood Preparation

First thing to do is to survey of all the surfaces. After doing this , you will be able to determine what you will need.

• Surface marks

• Rough Areas

Back

Step Two: Priming

There are several methods to applying primer. I usually just brush primer. I am not saying that it is the best way to do it, but that is the way I do it. I prefer to prime before the wood is installed. This makes the process of staining much faster. To do this type of application, layout the wood across two saw horses with a dropsheet below to keep the mess to a minimum. Next mix the primer thoroughly from bottom to top. Proceed by dipping the brush into the primer about one inch up the bristols. Wipe the brush off as you pull the can out of the primer. This should leave enough primer in the brush to start. Place the brush about five inches away from the end of the piece of wood and drag it toward the opposite end. When the brush begins to show signs of being almost empty stop and drag the brush back past where you started at. Right past the end. Again reload the brush and start about five inches from where you had to turn back the previous stroke. Repeat until the piece is completed. Once the piece is completed, run the brush one end to the other without stopping. Complete the rest of the wood following these steps. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use. .

*******Install Wood with one coat of stain and one coat of sealer if possible***********

Back

Step Three: Wood Preparation

First thing you can do after the wood has been installed is be sure to inset all the nails with a nail punch. The nails should be inset by about 1/16 – 1/8 of an inch. Start to fill the nail holes with colour matched putty. The putty can also be used to fill small joints that are not more the 1/16 of an inch in width. Joints that are larger will need to be prefilled with wood cement or wood filler. Sand all the wood. Use 120 grit or finer. After all this has been completed, You can wipe each piece to remove any excess putty and dust with varsol or mineral spirits.

Back

Step Four: First Finish Coat

Apply the coat of your choice of finish whether it be latex / varethane / urathane. Be sure to spread the finish out as much as you can by strking back and forth. After three or four feet, drag your brush back over quickly where you had just finished to have a continuous follow through stroke. Nothing looks worse then a lot of brush marks. Let dry. Different products take shorter or longer periods of time to dry. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

Back

Step Five: Wood Preparation

Now just a light sanding with 120 grit or finer. You just want to take off any roughness of the finish. You do not want to remove the finish! Wipe clean varsol or mineral spirits to remove the dust.

Step Six: Second Finish Coat

Apply the second coat the same as the the first coat. And you are fininshed.

Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

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Step One: Surface Preparation

Step Two: Priming

Step Three: Surface Preparation

Step Four and Five: Painting on the Finish

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Step One: Surface Preparation

You should take a broom and sweep the entire surface to remove spider webs, sand, dust, etc….
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Step Two: Priming

When cement surfaces have not been previously painted, they have to be primed with a special concrete primer. The texture of this primer is very thick and should be applied quickly because of quick drying time. When doing the priming, the idea is to fill every hole and crack with primer. This creates a great base coat for the paint to adhere to. Put lots on and also evenly. You may find you have to use a combination of brush and roller to achieve good coverage.

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Step Three: Surface Preparation

A quick sanding is still required between coats.

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Step Four and Five: Painting on the Finish

When it comes to putting on the finish paint, first try to cut in the areas that the roller may not be able to do. I would suggest to apply two coats of finish.
 

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Step One: Surface Preparation

Step Two: Priming

Step Three: Surface Preparation

Step Four and Five: Painting on the Finish

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Step One: Surface Preparation

First you have to remove all paint that is flaking. This is usually done best with a powerwasher and a paint scaper. Take some premix concrete patch to repair cement work. Next you will have to wait until the cement is totally dry. Spot prime the areas now lacking paint. Put lots on and also evenly.

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Step Two: Priming

It will have to be primed with a special concrete primer. Be sure to feather the paint onto areas that still have paint.

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Step Three: Surface Preparation

A quick sanding is still required between coats.

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Step Four and Five: Painting on the Finish

Apply first coat of finish paint. Wait until dry, then a quick sanding and apply the second coat.
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